Archive for June, 2010

Racoons & Sweet Corn

June 29, 2010

It seems the official sweet corn inspector should be the raccoon, which seems to harvest sweet corn the day before it is to be picked. The only effective control measure I have had success with is the electric fence. Here are some suggestions based on my experience. Other designs may very well work but this is what has worked in my garden.

– Two or more wires must be used. Place the first about 5 inches above the ground and the second 4 inches above the first (or 9 inches above ground). Raccoons must not be able to crawl under, go between or go over the wires without being shocked.

– Fence posts used for electric fences work well for this application (go figure), as do the insulators used to support the electric wire.

– It is much easier to use the woven electric wire with strands of wire embedded than to use a solid metal wire. The woven wire is easier to bend around corners and to roll up when done for the year.

– Though both the plug-in and battery operated fencers work, the battery operated types allow more versatility in where corn is grown. One set of batteries is usually sufficient for the season. In my case, I pull the battery out of an old tractor that is not used much. It will also last the season if fully charged at the beginning. My fencer is probably on for a total of a month.

– Start the charger before the corn is close to being ripe. Once raccoons get a taste of the corn, they are more difficult to discourage.

– Control weeds near the wire. Weeds can intercept to voltage if they touch a wire and allow raccoons entry beyond the weed.

– Check the wire occasionally to make sure you have current. This can be done easily (but unpleasantly) by touching the wire. There are also tools that will measure the voltage available for sale. They are worth the money.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Grub Control

June 29, 2010

If you plan on using a grub preventative on your lawn, the first half of July is a good target date. Preventatives are normally used on areas that have had a history of grub problems. Traditional grub insecticides such as Dylox are normally applied in late July after grubs are present or as a rescue treatment once damage is seen. Products that contain Merit (imidacloprid) or Mach 2 (halofenozide) are considered grub preventers. Actually, neither product prevents grubs, but rather they kill grubs when they are quite small, and long before they cause damage. Merit and Mach 2 are safer to use around pets and humans than traditional grub killers. Merit can be found in Bayer’s Season-Long Grub Control and Grub-Ex. Mach 2 is the active ingredient in Kill-a-Grub. Remember all grub products must be watered in before they are activated.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Slime Molds

June 28, 2010

Slime molds are primitive organisms that are common on turf and mulch. Slime molds are not fungi and are no longer classified as such. They belong to the Kingdom Protista rather than Kingdom Fungi. On turf, you might often see large numbers of small gray, white or purple fruiting structures, called sporangia on leaf blades during cool and humid weather throughout spring, summer and fall. Affected areas are often several inches to 1 foot in diameter. During wet weather, the fruiting structures may appear slimy. As the structures dry out in hot weather, they become ash gray and break up easily when touched. Homeowners often are concerned that this is a disease organism that will kill the grass, but slime mold feeds on bacteria, other fungi and dead organic matter. It simply uses the turf as a structure on which to grow. However, slime mold can damage turf by completely covering leaf blades and interfering with photosynthesis. Chemical control of slime molds is not necessary. Use a broom or a heavy spray of water to dislodge the mold.

Slime molds on mulch often attract attention because of their bright colors and disgusting appearance. Common names are often quite descriptive. For example, the “dog vomit” slime mold is a bright, whitish color that resembles its namesake. It eventually turns brown and then into a hard, white mass. There is also the “scrambled egg” slime mold, “the yellow blob” slime mold and the “regurgitated cat breakfast” slime mold. Slime molds do not hurt anything, but most people do not find them attractive and want to get rid of them. Simply use a shovel to discard the offensive organism and then stir up the mulch for aeration. For some excellent photos of slime mold, see Megan Kennelly’s post to the KSU Turfgrass Information Blog at http://blogs.ksre.ksu.edu/ksuturf/2010/06/slime-goo-and-caviar/

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Cherry Leaf Spot

June 28, 2010

We are nearing the time to control the fungus disease cherry leaf spot. This disease causes small, pinpoint dark lesions on the leaves. The black spots often fall out, resulting in a shot-hole appearance. Numerous lesions turn light green, then yellow, and eventually the infected leaf will drop. Removing diseased leaves at the end of the season can help, but a fungicide application immediately after harvest is also helpful. Try using chlorothalonil (Dacthal, Fertilome Broad-Spectrum Fungicide, Ortho Garden Disease Control, or others), captan (found in some fruit tree sprays) or myclobutanil (Immunox). Reapply two weeks after the first application.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Squash Bugs

June 25, 2010

Squash bugs are the grey, shield-shaped bugs that feed on squash and pumpkin plants. If you have had problems with these insects in the past, you know that they are almost impossible to control when mature. This is because the squash bugs have a hard body that an insecticide has difficulty penetrating. Thus, spraying when the insects are small is important. We are now seeing the nymphs of the first generation. These nymphs will eventually become adults, which will lay eggs that will become the second generation. The second generation is often huge and devastating. Therefore, it is important to control as many squash bugs now as possible. Because squash bugs feed by sucking juice from the plant, only insecticides that directly contact the insect will work. General use insecticides such as permethrin (Bug-B-Gon Multi-Purpose Garden Dust, Green Thumb Multipurpose Garden and Pet Dust, Bug-No-More Yard and Garden Insect Spray, Eight Vegetable, Fruit and Flower Concentrate, Garden, Pet and Livestock Insect Control, Lawn & Garden Insect Killer), malathion, rotenone, and methoxychlor provide control if a direct application is made to young, soft-bodied squash bugs. This means that you MUST spray or dust the underside of the leaves because this is where the insects live.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Slugs…With A Bit of Humor!

June 23, 2010

The recent wet weather experienced throughout most of Kansas will likely increase slug population activity. Slugs are destructive pests that feed on many plants in landscapes and gardens including annuals, perennials, vegetables, bulbs, ground covers, trees and shrubs. Slugs can devour young seedlings overnight. One of their favorite plants to feed on is hosta.

Slugs are mollusks, related to oysters and clams. Slugs are referred to as “naked snails,” because they possess no shell. They are brown in color and 1-1/2 to 2 inches long. Slugs lay clusters of translucent, pearly-shaped eggs under debris or beneath the soil surface. They can lay between 20 and 100 eggs several times per year. The gray garden slug, Deroceras reticulatum, is the slug generally encountered in the Midwest. It is approximately 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches long. Colors include pale yellow, lavender or purple. In addition, they are covered with black or brown spots and mottling.

Slugs have chewing mouthparts and cause plant damage by creating large irregular shaped holes in leaves with tattered edges. They feed using a structure called a radula, which is in the mouth and covered with small teeth. Slugs tend to feed on succulent foliage such as seedlings, herbaceous plants and fruit lying on the ground.

Slug movement depends on soil moisture because they need it to produce a slimy mucus substance, which allows them to move around. It dries, leaving a shiny, noticeable trail. Slugs are mainly active at night (nocturnal) when relative humidity is high from evening rains or irrigation. They hide during the day under mulch, plant debris, rocks, boards, weeds, and ground covers.

Slug management involves implementing a combination of strategies such as handpicking, habitat modification, and use of barriers, traps, baits and commercial molluskicides. Monitoring is important to determine the effectiveness of slug management strategies. Monitoring involves going out in the evening with a flashlight and looking for slugs. Handpicking is recommended to reduce initial slug numbers. It is especially effective during moist weather conditions. Placing slugs into a jar containing soapy water will kill them.

There are two other methods of killing slugs once they have been collected. But both are quite macabre. One method involves stepping on the critters. Slugs make a squishy sound when stepped on (although this depends on the intensity of the step). The other method is to scatter slugs on a driveway and drive back and forth over them with a truck or car. Or have children with bikes run over the slugs. But they will have to do this more than once.

Habitat modification is one of the most effective strategies in reducing slug problems. This involves eliminating hiding places such as mulches, weeds, old vegetation and plant debris. Proper watering practices can also alleviate slug problems. For example, avoid watering late in the day, which creates moist conditions conducive to slug activity. Instead, water plants early in the morning. Research has shown that morning watering provides as much protection from slug damage as metaldehyde (Deadline) pellets. In addition, the use of drip irrigation systems, in which water is directed toward individual plants, may reduce slug populations.

Copper barriers may be placed around the base of shrubs and trees subjected to constant feeding. Slugs receive a slight electric shock when their moist bodies contact copper; this then repels them. However, widespread use of this method may not be feasible. Furthermore, copperbands have sharp edges, which can harm children and pets.

Diatomaceous earth, shredded bark, egg shells, and wood ash have been used as barriers to prevent slugs from feeding on plants. Overall, these materials work best during dry periods when slugs are less active. However, the effectiveness of these materials is reduced by rainfall, which means they have to be reapplied regularly. Moreover, these materials lose their effectiveness after getting wet. Constant use of some of these materials such as eggshells and wood ash is discouraged because over time they may raise the pH of the soil. Also, never pour salt on slugs because it may burn plant foliage and roots.

Traps, such as wooden boards or rolled newspaper can be positioned where slugs are feeding. Check traps early in the morning. Perform this procedure once or twice per week. Afterwards, place slugs into a jar containing soapy water to kill them.

Baits are available that attract slugs into traps where they then drown. One popular bait is beer. Although there may be better uses for beer, some die-hard practitioners insist that beer reduces slug populations. This can be done by pouring beer into a shallow pan and placing it in the ground with the pan edges extending about 1/8 to 1/4 inches. Slugs are attracted to the yeasty smell and fall into the pan and drown. Some folks claim that when slugs “party” they consume too much beer, get sluggish from the high alcohol content, and it eventually kills them. I have not seen any data that supports this claim. But a study from Colorado State University showed that Kingsbury Malt Beverage (from Heileman Breweries) was the beer most preferred by slugs. (I guess they conducted a slug taste test.) But beer does not have an Environmental Protection Agency registration number, so using it as a pesticide is technically not legal.

Most commercially available poison baits include metaldehyde (Deadline) as the active ingredient. Metaldehyde does not directly kill slugs. Instead, it works by paralyzing and causing slugs to secrete excess amounts of mucus. Death generally occurs from water loss and/or exposure to direct sunlight. Nonetheless, under cool, moist weather slugs may actually recover. Metaldehyde is sensitive to environmental conditions, degrading very rapidly when exposed to direct sunlight and excessive moisture. However, the new formulation of Deadline is more resistant to degradation. Metaldehyde is toxic to cats and dogs if large quantities are ingested.

The molluskicide, Sluggo is also available. The active ingredient is iron phosphate. Sluggo contains a bait that attracts and kills slugs. Once they consume the material they crawl away and die. This is why people do not typically see dead slugs around the area. Sluggo kills slugs within 3 to 6 days. It can be used around pets and may remain potent for a longer time compared to metaldehyde.

There are various beetles such a firefly larvae and ground beetles that feed on slugs. But these predators may not be present in sufficient enough numbers to maintain slug populations below damaging levels.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Dutch Elm Disease

June 22, 2010

People often assume that all of our American Elms have been killed by Dutch elm disease. Fortunately, such is not the case. Though many have survived thus far, the number diminishes each year, with some years being more severe than others. We are seeing numerous examples of Dutch elm disease on American elms this year. Though American elms are the species often associated with this disease, red and some hybrid elms are also susceptible. Siberian elm (sometimes referred to as Chinese elm) and the true Chinese elm (lacebark elm) are considered resistant but not immune to the disease.

Early diagnosis can help save recently infected trees. Look for branches with leaves that have wilted and suddenly turned yellow to brown. Remove a portion of the branch and peel back an area of the bark. If you notice brown streaking in the sapwood, you may have Dutch elm disease. Healthy bark is more cream-colored and the streaking is absent. Suspect wood should be submitted to the diagnostic lab and control measures started immediately.

Dutch elm disease can often be controlled through the use of systemic fungicide injections, judicious pruning of affected trees and removal of nearby diseased elms. However, trees infected through root grafts with nearby infected elms or those in which the disease has reached the main stem cannot be saved. Therefore, preventative measures have a better chance of success and are preferred. Fungicides labeled for Dutch elm disease include Arbotect and Alamo. The Arbotect fungicide is preferred because it is the most persistent with a three-year interval between injections. A trained arborist should administer injections. These treatments are quite expensive. Check with your local arborist for current prices.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

2010 Water Garden Tour

June 21, 2010

When:
Saturday, July 17 | 4:00 – 8:00 p.m.
Sunday, July 18 | 12:00 – 5:00 p.m.

Cost: $10.00 Per Person
11 years & under FREE with paid adult

Tickets can be purchased at the Old Mill Nursery – 805 S. 36th St. – 816.749.4400

Rain or Shine


The St. Joseph Area Water Garden Society meets the second Thursday of each month. During the warm weather months they meet at different member’s home each month. Cold weather months they meet at Journey Church (3004 Pickett Rd, St. Joseph)

Membership is:
$10 per single person per year
$15 per couple per year

For more information, please contact club President, Robert at 816.233.4730.

www.sjwatergarden.com

Bagworms Are Here So Beware!

June 18, 2010

Well, it is that time of year, which you have been nervously anticipating—dealing with that insect pest called the bagworm, Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis. Yes, bagworms are out-and-about feeding on different trees and shrubs. So, what can you use to minimize the damage caused by bagworm caterpillars? Well, a number of insecticides labeled for control or suppression of bagworms include acephate (Orthene), Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki (Dipel, Thuricide), cyfluthrin (Tempo), trichlorfon (Dylox), indoxacarb (Provaunt), chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn), and spinosad (Conserve). Some of these active ingredients are often available and sold under different trade names. Furthermore, several of these materials may not be available to homeowners. Insecticide applications are most effective on the young caterpillars. Older caterpillars in the bags may be 3/4 inch long and are more difficult to control or obtain sufficient mortality. Furthermore, females tend to feed less as they prepare for reproduction, which reduces their susceptibility to insecticide sprays and any residues. The bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis is highly active on young caterpillars; however, the material must be ingested to be effective, so thorough coverage of all plant parts is essential. Spinosad (Conserve) works by contact and ingestion, and is extremely effective in suppressing bagworm populations. Cyfluthrin (Tempo), trichlorfon (Dylox), and indoxacarb (Provaunt) are typically used against the larger caterpillars. Again, thorough coverage of all plant parts is essential, especially the tops of trees and shrubs, where bagworms commonly initiate feeding.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter

Blossom-end Rot

June 16, 2010

If you have tomatoes with a sunken, brown leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit, you probably have blossom-end rot. Though most common on tomatoes, blossom-end rot can also affect squash, peppers and watermelons. Not a disease, this condition is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. It is often assumed that this means there is a corresponding lack of calcium in the soil. This is not necessarily the case, especially in Kansas. Most Kansas soils are derived from limestone, which is partially made up of calcium. So what causes blossom-end rot? Actually, there are a number of possible causes, especially on tomatoes. Let’s look at some of them.

– Tomato tops often outgrow the root system during cooler spring weather. As long as it is cool, the root system can keep up. When it turns hot and dry, the plant has a problem, and water — with the calcium it carries — goes to the leaves and the fruit is bypassed. The plant responds with new root growth and the condition corrects itself after a couple of weeks.

– Heavy fertilization, especially with ammonium forms of nitrogen, can encourage this condition. Heavy fertilization encourages more top than root growth and the ammonium form of nitrogen competes with calcium for uptake.

– Anything that disturbs roots such as hoeing too deep can encourage blossom-end rot. Mulching helps because it keeps the soil surface cooler and therefore a better environment for root growth.

– Inconsistent watering can be a factor. Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Mulching can help by moderating moisture levels over time. You should also avoid damaging roots and watch fertilization. But there are some years you do everything right and the condition shows up due to the weather. In such cases, remember that blossom-end rot is a temporary condition, and plants should come out of it in a couple of weeks. You may want to pick off affected fruit to encourage new fruit formation.

Soils with adequate calcium will not benefit from adding additional calcium. If your soil is deficient in this nutrient, add 1 pound gypsum per 100 square feet. Gypsum is calcium sulfate and will not affect pH. Though calcium raises pH, sulfate lowers it and the two cancel each other out. Even if not needed, gypsum will not hurt anything.

We have also found that spraying plants with calcium doesn’t work. The fruit’s waxy surface doesn’t allow absorption of the material and calcium does not move from the leaves to the fruit.

Articles reprinted from the K-State Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter